| This is one of
those nice kits that you come across now and then, the parts are crisp, it
goes together easily and they fit really well, the clear part really are
clear and there is plenty of detail in the cockpit to keep even the
superdetailers happy. |
| There is a lot of painting to be
done before construction begins, the walls of the cockpit need to be fully
painted before assembling or you won’t be able to reach some parts and
there are lots of them, it took me two days to paint all the tiny dials,
knobs and switches etc. but it was certainly worth the effort. The engine
faces need careful painting, early on, as they are to be enclosed in the
two halves of the nacelles. Take care, when adding cement to part 104, the
retaining bush, not to get any on the outer surface or your prop won’t
turn. |
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The exhaust are supposed to be
inserted at this stage but you may need to enlarge the holes for them or
you could leave them off until the final stages when you will need to
remove the locating tab and insert from the outside as I did.
The upper fuselage/midwing section is a great Idea and works well but I
would advise you to cement the outer wing panels to it and get as good a
joint as possible before adding the fuselage and lower wing halves. |
The instructions show tape being
used to hold parts together whilst drying which is a good Idea but make
sure, if you have used liquid cement, to apply it before putting tape on
the parts or it can creep under the tape and mar the surface, I use 10mm
masking tape and I cut several bits about an inch long and hang them on
the side of my bench ready to use as needed.
There are no problems with alignment on this bird as those wing and
tailplane sections keep everything perfect but you must bear in mind that
the engine nacelles are handed so Identify them some how when you build
them up, yes I know most of you know that already but someone is building
his first model kit somewhere. |
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The underwing fuel tank should be rotated 90
degrees so the fins are horizontal I am informed but don’t mount it or
the Henschel bomb until the decals are in place
as these go over the
pylons (the Promodeller decals are in separate pieces for this purpose
whereas the Revell Germany ones are not and are tricky to apply) |
Painting and decalling
There are a number of Gun
barrels protruding from various windows and they make life difficult
when you are masking up, so only the nose section was glued on. The
gondola and cockpit glazing were simply tacked in position with white glue
and removed after spraying when the guns were added then they were
cemented back on permanently.
There is a set of canopy masks available for
the Dornier but I didn’t have a set so each individual window was masked
using Sellotape (scotch tape) pressing into the frame edges with a
cocktail stick and then cutting around with a new scalpel blade, it took
for ever!!!! |
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The camouflage colours
are RLM 72/73 which give very little contrast in fact you can hardly see
the difference so I added a touch of Yellow and White to the 73 just to
emphasise it a little more (not strictly correct but effective none the
less). The lighter colour was sprayed first and
left overnight then the edges of the colour were masked with 10mm Tamiya
tape and the darker colour added carefully, again leave overnight then
mask off the upper colours to spray the RLM 65 light blue and the mottling
on the fuselage sides. Once this was
finished the main masking was removed
and a couple of coats of Johnsons Klear were dusted on in preparation for
the decals and another coat after their placement. |
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To bring everything back to a slight
sheen I used a mix of Klear and Tamiya flat base in 3 to 1 proportions and
lightly dusted a final coat before removing the canopy masking. All the
remaining parts were assembled and aerials were added to finish off an
impressive model.
Ted
Drop by
Ted's Website to see more of his models. Ted
Taylor's Modelworks
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